The recent Prada-Kolhapuri sandal controversy reignited a vital discussion on cultural appropriation and the importance of giving due credit to traditional crafts. When global fashion borrows from rich cultural legacies without acknowledgment, it not only exploits communities but dilutes centuries of tradition.
Prada’s sandals, nearly identical to Kolhapuri chappals, spotlight how easily indigenous design can be appropriated. These chappals, rooted in Maharashtra’s cultural heritage and protected under India’s GI framework, are more than just footwear they represent identity, skill, and sustainability. Yet, their heritage was omitted from the narrative.
Growing up in India, I formed an intuitive bond with its textile traditions from Ajrakh to Dabu printing. During the pandemic, I undertook the entire Dabu printing process on my own at home from mixing the mud-resist to stamping and dyeing gaining firsthand insight into how labor intensive and nuanced this craft truly is. The process preparing mud resist, hand stamping, dyeing was not just about technique, but storytelling. It made me realize how deeply craft is intertwined with emotion and place.
Indigo Dye Vat
Wooden Blocks for printing
Mud paste
Applying Mud paste on fabric using blocks
Sprinkling saw dust
Drying in the sun
DABU PRINTING - Behind the scenes
As a textile designer in the UK, I see an opportunity to reshape this dynamic. Indian heritage textiles have the power to not only enrich global fashion but to ground it in something meaningful. When collaborations are respectful, transparent, and equitable, they celebrate both innovation and origin.
This moment is a reminder: tradition and modernity can coexist powerfully if credit is given, and artisans are centered in the story.
Bridging Indian craft with global design isn't just aesthetic, it’s ethical. It challenges fashion to become more thoughtful, and more inclusive. And in doing so, it opens the door to a fashion future built on integrity, not imitation